A wee Winter Trip - National Park & Taupo

It's that time of year... the dark closes in early and it's getting chilly at night. The sun is out, but is just a little weaker than it should be. In New Zealand we have (usually) two options: head to the islands and grab hold of whatever sunshine we can, or head to the snow (or mountains at least). This year looks like it will be a snow year, with our borders still firmly shut. And that isn't necessarily a bad thing. We are blessed with plenty of mountain / snow options. From Auckland we can drive to National Park and Mt Ruapehu and the Whakapapa ski fields or if a flight is in the budget there is the glory of Queenstown and Wanaka.

Last year, we packed the kids up and took them on a driving trip to National Park. Whilst the kids are yearning for snow, we timed this in the April school holidays so it was cool but no snow yet. This was still a great trip with many cool stops and explores along the way. I guess I have to mention here that if you do travel in winter proper, please check the roads are open and if you need tyre chains to make any of the passes. We didn't need any of this when we went. Below is our itinerary if you’re looking to do something similar:

Day 1:
Drive: Auckland - National Park (5 hours drive time with extra for lunch)
Stay: National Park
Day 2:
Do: Tongariro Crossing
Stay: National Park
Day 3:
Drive: National Park - Turangi (40 minutes drive)
Do: Rafting
Drive: Turangi - Taupo (45 minutes drive)
Do: Hot Pools
Stay: Telephone Exchange (27 minutes drive from Taupo)
Day 4:
Do: Orakei Korako (32 minutes from the Telephone Exchange)
Do: Huka Falls
Do: Arartiatia Rapids
Stay: Telephone Exchange
Day 5:
Drive: Taupo - Auckland (5 hours drive via Putaruru)

Day 1 - Auckland to National Park

In our house it's an early start for all journey's - 'make the most of the day' is definitely the motto. So, it's with coffee grasped in one hand, the kids loaded with pillows, blankets and a box full of books that we bundle off into the dawn, ready to hit the road. We've planned our journey with at least a stop in the middle as it's a good 4 - 5 hour drive from our home to National Park.
Getting out of Auckland is easy enough, and hardly novel until we are on different roads, beyond Hamilton. We've not done a New Zealand roadie really with the kids as they were small (and terrible long road trip travellers) or we were living in Thailand. Whilst in Thailand we'd taken a deep breath and did a 10 day driving tour around the north. It was a blast and the kids were amazing. So this journey didn't scare us!

Being an Aucklander born and bred the drive out of Auckland really doesn't send us into thrills, so it was quickly onto the forestry town of Tokoroa. This was a short lunch stop, no intention of really looking around. One thing about a
New Zealand roadie, there are awesome food places, cafes, restaurants and bakeries all over the place. But, they are sparsely spread and you really need to 'know' where some of these are. And many of the small towns are just not geared towards tourists. We found, what seemed to be, the only open cafe in town and they were vastly under-prepared for the lunch rush of tourists and had to shut up early as they had run out of food supplies?? We had made it just in time, our options were limited to toastie sandwiches (not a bad option for the kids and hubby) and I tried a beef salad... simple but filling fare. We jumped back in the car and made a beeline for our first stop... National Park.

100 year old cutie…

We had booked a two night stay in National Park town itself. We booked a sweet cottage through Airbnb. The drive from Tokoroa through to National Park was a lot more interesting as we were passing along the Desert Road and could see through to the alpine areas, including the lovely Mt Ruapehu and Mt Ngaruruhoe. We arrived in National Park and met the owner of our little cottage on site. She gave us the rundown on the area, and the house. Including her personal history with the house. Always nice to get a 'sense of place' when visiting. She showed us the wood pile for the wood burner, and sensed we'd be needing it! The sky was clear and we were up on the plateau so likely it would be getting cold! We downed our bags and checked out the house, it was just right. Near the railway it was built for the railway families and was 100 years old. A couple of bedrooms, a cosy lounge and a bright and small kitchen overlooking the backyard and up to the snowy peak of Mt Ruapehu. With still a little light left before the cold and dark would close in we bundled the kids back into the car and headed for National Park itself and a little explore.

New Zealand’s answer to a French Chateau

It was a short drive through the plateau and turning up to the enchanting Chateau Tongariro and entrance to the mountains. We stopped on one of the short walks on the way and weren't disappointed with being immersed very quickly into the alpine woods and a lovely river, perfect for a few minutes of stone skipping. We then turned around and out, back to the car and up to National Park itself - visiting the information centre for a bit more 'info' on the area. Hubby had decided he was going to do the 'saddle' walk (or the Tongariro Alpine Crossing) the next day as the weather looked perfect. He picked up a map (always prepared, and always a sucker for a good walking map) and talked to the information team about the best options for shuttles to the start of the walk and return. You can not access the walk without a shuttle, for safety, and to avoid too many cars being parked at the trail head.

Stone skipping

The kids loved the displays in the centre. Our son particularly, is taken with Sir Edmund Hilary and his explorations over the years and therefore mountains and climbing them are of deep interest. The centre had a curious, if dated, video room of the history of the area including the more recent eruptions from Mt Ruapehu. It's always worth being reminded that this is very much a volcanic plateau, and there are still the occasional rumble. The one I remember is in 1995, and my sister was on high school camp in the area when Mt Ruapehu started pushing out smoke and steam... she remembers seeing it from the gate of the camp!

Chardonnay and a view of the mountain from the Chateau

Hubby and I weren't going to go past the Chateau without stopping in for a drink. Kids... not so thrilled but bought off with a lemonade. The Chateau is just so much like a European manor it conjures up a bygone era of elegance and style. My Grandmother had an affinity with this place, I think as she grew up in the Central Plateau area and also in a time when there were still pearls, and a proper way to dress, eat and drink. The glamour has faded a little and the Chateau feels a little like she needs some serious love (and a few less of the modern extensions in those corporate glory days of the 1990's). But we found a warm spot beside the big picture window and the fire and ordered a chardonnay to stare out the window for a bit. Perfect! Felt like we had indeed travelled to another place. However, much as we'd linger for a little longer the kids were not feeling the joy, and we'd not brought our trusty pack of family playing cards. So, it was back in the car and a short drive back to our little house.

Just in time, and hubby quickly got the fire fired up, the little house was cosy very quickly. National Park township is tiny... by tiny I mean there are a few streets of houses, a primary school, a gas station with superette, the National Park Train Station and a pub (with mini golf). Therefore, dinner options are limited. But we were prepared and had packed supplies for a simple dinner at the house, with wine. A few rounds of Rummicub and we were all happy. Hubby booked his shuttle for super early in the morning. And just as well we weren't going anywhere the next day as, what always seems to happen, the kids were showing signs of being a little under the weather. Especially our daughter, she was asleep on my lap by 8pm, unheard of!

No snow, but a great view

Next morning, we woke to the most perfect alpine day, clear blue skies and a chill in the air. Hubby had stoked the fire on his way out for the shuttle, leaving us tucked up in bed. My plan with the kids was to see how everyone was and try and explore a little. Our son and I were up and happily ensconced in the sunny little kitchen with a Rummicub championship underway, thoroughly enjoying the relax and quiet. Our daughter was fast asleep, hopefully sleeping off whatever snuffle she'd caught. And sure enough, she didn't wake until after 10am! A few cuddles and breakfast and we bundled up for a walk to the school playground for a play. Then into the car and I took the kids up the mountain for a look. They were very excited and hopeful for snow.... not too be. Best we got was a great view across the plateau and to watch helicopters bringing supplies up for the new ski lift area being built. Still nice to get out and about. Hubby was having a gorgeous walk, with regular updates. He was back with us by late afternoon, happy, but tired.

View from the top

He’d been surprised and a little horrified by the number of ‘day trampers’ who were treating the mountains like a bush walk. Active wear pants, light jumpers, no supplies and he was most horrified by jandals?? Any climb of any mountain, in any weather needs to be considered carefully, and planned for. The day can start perfect with clear skies, but very quickly can turn to cloud, chilled air and dangerous conditions. Best be over prepared!

Mini golf championship underway…

We made it to the pub and a round of mini golf, it is actually a fun and creative course and perfect family fun for the end of the day. Rounded off with a beer in the pub we decided we'd eat in our little cottage again and snuggle into the lounge again. The next day we were off to our next stop, Taupo. But not without a rafting experience first!!!

Day 3 - National Park to Taupo

Again, mindful of the travel time and today we had a white water rafting trip planned (and booked) we were up with the sparrows. The kids were still slightly sniffly but the energy was back after the relatively quiet day before, which was good as were planning to throw them down a river!

Packed the car, safely hid the key to our little cottage and off we went, travelling less familiar roads through to Turangi and our rafting. Now, hubby and I have rafted in New Zealand and several places around the world (all as tourists - by no means are we experts), but obviously our kids haven’t been. And, quite rightly, most options are only available once they are older (around 12 years old), but we’d found Tongariro River Rafting which did a specific family trip for kids aged from 3 years up. We were totally expecting what they sold it as, a ‘Family Float’, no rapids here! But the kids were gunning and ready, and we were excited to share this with them.

Yes, that’s our daughter in the middle with her tongue out!

The tour was a full one, with 3 boats of families ready to float down the Tongariro River. With the usual safety briefing and everyone put into full wetsuits, helmets and life jackets were off in the bus for the top of the river. Into the boats, with a guide, our son was put up the front with hubby to help with steering, I was in behind with a family with two older girls, slightly less certain of the adventure. Our 6 year old daughter was plonked in the front and centre, without a paddle (too small to really help), and just told to hold on! Down the river we went, with lots of instructions and small rapids to navigate. What a fabulous day. The kids were so happy! Our son felt important to the team with his paddling and took the instructions seriously. Our daughter, apparently a bit of a thrill seeker, was yahooing down the rapids with her hands up and yelling with joy! She had to be reminded to get down at times, less she was ‘bounced’ out! Hubby and I took most of our joy from the look on our kids faces, it was a beautiful day to drift down the river and enough rapids to feel like it was an adventure. But it was calm enough to all have a hot mug of Milo and a biscuit before we reached the end of the trip!

The water was a little cool to really want to jump in and swim, but I can imagine that in summer, more than a few kids (and parents) end up drifting for some of the trip. It made us want to find another trip for us to do as a family, but so far I think we have to wait a few more years…

Once we were finished it was time for lunch. Dry and warm we headed into the nearby town of Turangi proper and whilst the options aren’t plentiful, we settled on Rust Burger Bar . With quite delicious pulled pork burgers and chips we were more than content.

The mysterious depths of Lake Taupo

On our way through we made the stop to look at the mighty Lake Taupo, which is around the size of Singapore? Which I’ve never decided makes Singapore tiny or Lake Taupo is enormous?… In any case there is an air of mystery and mystic about the lake and this is to do with it’s size, how it came about (an enormous volcanic explosion) and the many Maori myths that surround the area. Again, like the thermal areas it demands respect and is awe-inspiring.

We made a quick stop at one of the hot pools surrounding the area - the Tokaanu Hot Pools which are simple concrete pools with the heated water from the natural surrounds. So good soaking in the steam. These are also surrounded by a walkway with mudpools and more thermal delights to ogle at. A great little stop.

It was back into the car and on the road to find our next stop for the night… the intriguingly named Telephone Exchange. I should mention here that we are those people that will stay in unique, out of the way, interesting places far quicker than we’d ever opt for a motel in the middle of town. This policy has served us well over the years, with many a strange, odd and delightful place simply making staying worthwhile. We always plan these places knowing they’re not close to a dinner option, so a good lunch out and a simple dinner in is the perfect solution (oh and cold beers and a red wine - in case of fridge restrictions). Anyway, we found the Telephone Exchange on the Canopy Camping website, (go on have a poke around, I dare you not to find something to make you book) and largely built our trip around the dates it was available! All the info and directions were on the website and they were very clear about the distance from Taupo and the limitations of refrigeration (think chilly bin with ice packs). We had a two night stay and topped up our supplies in Taupo town and were keen to have the afternoon to enjoy the stay and surrounds.

Unfortunately for us, the distance is correct, however, there is no signal! So Google Maps failed us! We drove up and down the road with a grasp on where it should have been but drove past at least twice! Eventually having to drive until we found signal and could figure it out again. And low and behold there was a (subtle) Canopy Camping sign on the gate. We shall say here that we were ready for a sit and a beer! Anyway, Emily, the owner was there to great us with the chilly bins and instructions to the Telephone Exchange at the back of the small dairy farm. She also let us know that there were piglets we could visit on the way! We trundled our way across a couple of paddocks and turned into a separate paddock with a stand of Eucalyptus trees to provide privacy and spotted our little ‘hut’ for the next couple of days. And so picturesque. It is actually made up of two huts, one was originally a 1950's Telephone Exchange building, rescued and restored to become a charming bedroom, and the other the kitchen, shower and toilet block (connected by a covered walkway).

The weather was dry and a little cool so we were quick to unpack the car and set up the kitchen / cool the beers. Dylan soon turned up with one of his sons and ice packs in the farm truck for a quick chat and make sure we were settled in and knew where the kids loft was. The loft is a little space above the deliciously large and comfy bed. However, our kids took one look and shook their heads, it was a narrow ladder up and they were not tempted. So instead we asked for two sleeping bags and intended to set up the kids on the floor. But later decided that the boys would set up the stretchers in the kitchen (it closes up over night) and us girls got the glorious big bed! But that was all later on. We were keen to explore the farm and settle in. We quickly discovered the gorgeous tin bath nestled in the stand of trees, plumbed in with hot water and just big enough for two (kids). The kids took a walk around and we walked up to the top of a hill nearby to see the deer farm next door.

It was starting to get a little dark and cool so the brazier was fired up and fed wood continuously for the evening. We rustled up a simple dinner and ate with blankets over our knees looking out over the quiet of the farm. We then got the bath warmed and ready for the kids. It is so private they had no trouble running up the small path starkers and into the bath. It proved VERY popular with the kids and was a struggle to get them out for us grown ups to have a turn.

With no electricity, wifi or signal it is books, cards (or downloaded Netflix) only! But that’s just fine with us. We nestled the kids into the bedroom with the books and ipad and allowed ourselves a few quiet moments with a glass of wine. With the kids sleeping with us, and as always when sleeping in the open, you are dictated by the light and it wasn’t long before we were nestled in bed ourselves with torches and candles and soon snoozing away.

Day 4 - Taupo and Surrounds

Waking up to the sounds of the farm was lovely, I spend many a childhood holiday on my Aunt’s dairy farm and the sounds felt very familiar. We were up early (with the light and kids) and there was time for another go in the bath before breakfast. We had plans for the day!

We got ourselves organised and into the car, with time to stop to visit the piglets on the way out. Of course these were a big hit with the small people - all grunting and snuffling around in their glorious piggy way.

It was then on the way out of Taupo to our favourite (it feels hidden) thermal area, Orakei Korako. We’d been years before the kids and now was time to take them. It includes a boat ride across a lake to the thermal pools, geysers and caves. It was about 30 minutes from the Telephone Exchange (about 45 minutes from Taupo).

We arrived mid morning to a grey-ish day, but mostly dry, if cool. So jumpers and jackets were taken across the little lake crossing. It’s not a cheap outing for a family but, to us, seems the best value as it’s not very busy and feels tucked away from the hordes.

Once across the lake it’s a good couple hours to walk around (and that was at pace with kids that don’t pause), we had brought snacks and water (again, travel with kids and the value of snacks and water is beyond compare). The thermal pools are rainbow coloured and gorgeous, the geysers are wonderful to watch and the waterfalls of steaming water are awe inspiring. I find these areas awesome, in the real meaning of the word. It feels equal parts wonderful and terrifying to be this close to what feels like the heart of the earth, and the immense power held, and how quickly that can turn.

The two hour walk is nicely designed to weave through the pools, mud pools, waterfalls, terraces, steaming hills and even a beautiful cave, with information dotted around and back to the little covered jetty to take the ferry back to the other side - it feels like you’ve been transported from a prehistoric era back to modern day and it’s souvenir glory. Wrestling the kids away from a decision between a plastic kiwi and a fridge magnet we jumped in the car and made our way back to Taupo for lunch (and pick up supplies).

The glorious Huka Falls

A quick stop before heading to lunch was the glorious Huka Falls. Always loud and demanding and always impressive.

Plateau Bar & Eatery was the pick after a quick Trip Advisor search. And it was just right, a nice courtyard and an interesting menu, including kids menu. A nice way to have a glass of wine and lunch stop. We then topped up our evening supplies and timed our stop at the Aratiatia Rapids for the releasing of the dam waters. It is well worth the stop, a free attraction. We arrived early enough to walk up the trail and find a great spot over-looking the whole river. It builds wonderfully and fills the valley dramatically. We then headed back to the Telephone Exchange for our late afternoon and evening.

More hot baths, brazier fires, cold beers and card games and it wasn’t long before it was lights out.

Day 5 - Taupo to Auckland

Up and atom again - this time was the long drive back to Auckland, which on a good day is 4 hours so we wanted to get back before dark and also make time for a little stop somewhere.

A quick pack up of the car and farewell to our lovely hosts and the Telephone Exchange (and possibly our favourite bit - the bath) and on the road. This time looping up the other side of the island, just for a change of scenery. With a drive through Putaruru which is where my father grew up, we were hoping to stop at the museum as there is some family history, but alas, as with a lot of volunteer run attractions, they only open some days of the month and this wasn’t one of them! We’ll have to try another day.

This wasn’t a enthralling drive and we had a pie for lunch in mind, there weren’t many options on the route home, and on reflection we should have just service station stopped, but we were sure we could have found that wonderful bakery with the best pies. We made it home with bundles of time to pick up our cats, unpack the car and get sorted for the week ahead.

So, if you are road-tripping down this way, there is a lot to see and a lot to enjoy. Drive safe and enjoy, And as always feel free to ask me any questions.

Jess x

If you want any further information on any of the accommodation, attractions or activities I mention, please let me know. Below is a list of the key websites to help you on your way:

Travel Times:
AA Travel Times & Distance Calculator:
A great resource for understanding and planning any road trip around New Zealand.

Tongoriro National Park Information:
Totally worth checking out the D.O.C site for information and history on the area and advise for visiting. Especially if you intend to do walking.

Accommodation in National Park:
Holiday Houses
Bach Care
Airbnb
There are other sites to check out too but these would be a place to start for a cottage / house for a couple nights.

Tongariro Crossing:
Official website with information and details on the walk.

Chateau Tongariro:
Charming building in a magic setting. Food, drink and even accommodation.

Taupo Accommodation:
Telephone Exchange - Canopy Camping
Dare you not to find something else across NZ to tempt you.

Orakei Korako:
A true hidden gem of a thermal wonderland.

Aratiatia Rapids:
A very dramatic stop to see the dam release.

Huka Falls:
A glorious short stop.